Blog

The power of silence

In my long list of places to visit, there was one I had been waiting for the most: the highest gem of Costa Rica—Cerro Chirripó. For a few hours, that place offered me the company of insects, birds, a few mice, one or two mysterious pairs of eyes, and countless...

The Celebration I Didn’t Attend

I find my father’s letter. I can feel the paper and its folds. The typewritten letters are themselves relics of another era, when paper set the pace of life. I don’t remember saving it, and yet it has only recently come back to life. As I hold it in my hands, my...

The Breath

It rained without pause, as if the sky were trying to wash everything clean. Doña Rufina walked barefoot along the steep path, through a night that dragged everything along with it. She had walked all the way from Grifo Alto carrying a lamp wrapped in cloth. The river...

Fallen from the Sky

At 9:07 p.m. on April 23, 2019, in Aguas Zarcas de San Carlos, an uninvited visitor fell from the sky. It entered the planet on a steep trajectory at 14.6 km/s—roughly the equivalent of traveling from San José to Cartago in the blink of an eye. In the La Caporal...

Wearing the Trace of Time

. On a sunny morning, Greivin makes his way down to the Madre de Dios River with a sack slung over his shoulder. He is not alone: Jurgen, Memo, and I follow behind, trying to keep up as he moves forward with the enviable ease of a campesino, first through the...

The Journey of Blue

After several hours on the road, we reach Río Celeste, on the slopes of Tenorio Volcano. We protect ourselves from the downpour with plastic rain ponchos sold by some boys at the park entrance. The rain stirs up a smell of sulphur and wet tropics that fills the air....